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Netherlands Antilles   -   SABA - The Unspoiled Queen

 

saba.JPG (7575 Byte)The Netherlands on the Caribbean – the Dutch Antilles, St. Maarten, Saba, St. Eustatius, Aruba (autonome member of the Dutch Kingdom), Bonaire and Curacao, six isles but each of them very different. Saba as the smallest of all is at the same time the highest mountain of the Netherlands with its three unique dutch villages on a mountain. A nearly extincted volcano, the Mt. Scenery does not only form the isle – it is the isle. 897 m above the sea does the peak – nearly always covered by clouds – form an amazing silhoutte, no matter if you reach the isle by ship or plane. Several hand-hot places on the bottom of the sea and one hot spring at the foot of the cliffs show a constant volcanism.
Unfortunately hikers cannot reach this spring anymore since the last hurricane destroyed this way. The disastrous eruption on Montserrat was observed also here with strange feelings. Nevertheless people do not realize much more of volcano-activity than that. A very impressing experience for visitors is for example the climb to Mt. Scenery and the former sulphur-mine.

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nebel.JPG (9431 Byte)Neither does Saba have an international airport, nor is it a destination for mass tourism. People who come here look for two things especially – peace and quiet. The isle is perfectly made for nature-loving individualists. Extremely friendly people and a breath-taking landscape with rainforest, fogforest and a fascinating vegetation is characteristic of the isle. The safety on the isle is excellent. Practically there is no crime.

 Those who want to visit the isle fly as far as St. Maarten, there entering a small two-motor-propeller-driven plane, a so-called “Isle-Jumper”.

The landing on Saba gives you the special thrill – the landing strip is only 396 m long and therefore the shortest officially used runway worldwide. The small planes do not have a door dividing the cockpit from the rest of the plane. Passengers are involved in all pilot’s activities and get a direct flight-adventure. Not even having reached the isle completely you already wonder where the runway could be on this mountain the pilot steers for so boldely. Then you discover it on a small spit of land, on three sides surrounded by a steep coast. At the end of the strip is a sharp edge deep down to the sea. The plane is now about to reach the strip – highest strain – the co-pilot permanently announces the current altitude – the strip appears – the pilot touches down immediately – emergency stop – sharp right-hand curve – the plane now faces an airport-building charming as busstop. The airport-fire-brigade, turning out for each landing, returns back into the hangar. Managed! A first-class adventure for tourists but daily routine on Saba. The only accident so far at this airport was the collission of a goat with a landing plane. Since then the landing strip is fenced in.

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Being through with formalities for entry you take a taxi to the hotel. Travellers can choose between luxurious (and expensive…) or simple and suitable. We decided for simple and suitable. The “El Momo” – a small bungalow-complex, lead by Germans, offers you everything you need in paradise. The owners Oliver and Angelika Hartleib give you the comfortable feeling of being home. You immediately recognize that both of them are fully engaged and satisfied guests is the most important to them. The bungalows are simple and suitable. Bathroom and shower are to be shared amongst the guests but therefore you only pay the incredible price of 40 $ for 1 person, 50 $ per double bungalow and 60 $ per triple bungalow or the “Super-Cottage” – a comfortable house equipped with everything you need for 80 $ per night.

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 Only 1,800 inhabitants live on Saba. Literally seen does each one know everyone. Foreigners are as warmly welcomed and treated as everybody else on the isle. All in all there are only two main directions here – up or down, which is at first quite unusual and exhausting to lowland-spoiled middle-europeans as we are. There is no use in looking for beaches because there are no! Of course you will find some places with the sea being quite accessible but you will not relax on white sand. In spite of that steep coast and stone beaches means to you: do not forget your bathing shoes. The isle’s beauty especially appears to the visitor in lush rainforest with its sheer endless variety of plants. Dangerous animals, poisonous snakes etc. you look for vainly. But each hike on one of the many trails offers you new discoveries.

james2.JPG (12493 Byte)For example fern trees which have already been existed when dinosaurs still ruled the world and which Europeans only know from fossilization. Especially recommendable is the guided climb to the Mt. Scenery. Even though you can also manage the trip on your own, it is much more interesting with an informed guidance. Tourist-guide James, called “Crocodile-James” – a real prototype of the isle – is the best cross-country runner you can want for this. During his very informing guidance do we as civilization-damaged and nature-blind city-dwellers only realize what a paradise this isle is. farn1.JPG (14634 Byte)

Another highlight of the isle is its underwater-world. Saba offers you fascinating diving possibilities, attracting divers from all over the world year by year. You can rent the necessary equipment and those who want to start with diving can contact one of the diving-schools.

In the museum you can get an impression of the history of the isle’s settlement which is indeed very interesting. Everything had to be reloaded from big ships to small boats, brought to Ladder Bay and then an adventurous stair over 500 steps up to the capital, called “The Bottom” because it is situated in a small basin-shaped valley. Even the piano for the church was carried up to here by 16 men.

Only the little airport brought an easier access to the isle. The only street, called “The Street” connects all three villages on the isle. You do not need hired cars here, hitch-hiking is nothing unusual and being done without any problems.

Three weeks on Saba have been passed much too fast. I lost 6 kilo during this time although the food was delicious. The secret was simply the combination with daily exercise. Now also panting at going up and down the stairs belongs to the past.

We will definitely come back here!

 

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